Author
Ajay Sharma
Ajay runs We Care Holidays from Gangtok. He has been planning trips across Sikkim, Darjeeling and Nepal since 2012 and still drives North Sikkim himself twice a season.
22 articles by Ajay Sharma
Destination GuidesYumthang Valley: flowers, Zero Point and what the valley actually looks like at 3,564m
The rivers running beside the road are glacier-clear and the rocky ridgelines above feel close enough to touch. Yumthang at 3,564m is North Sikkim at its most dramatic — and Zero Point, 20 km further, adds a different world again.
Destination GuidesPelling: Kanchenjunga views, upper Pelling hotels and what to do in 2 nights
Pelling is the closest you can get to an unobstructed Kanchenjunga view without trekking. No permit, no special access — just a clear October morning and the right room on the upper ridge. Here is how to plan it properly.
Destination GuidesNathu La Pass: permits, the 200-a-day limit and what to expect at the India–China border
Only 200 permits are issued for Nathu La each day. They are non-refundable if weather shuts the road. Here is how the permit actually works, why every operator goes here first, and what it feels like to stand metres from the Chinese army at 4,310m.
Destination GuidesGurudongmar Lake: altitude, permits, access rules and what to expect at 5,430m
We have taken more than 5,000 guests to Gurudongmar since 2012. Here is the honest guide — the 10 AM cut-off that turns cars back, why oxygen is mandatory, and exactly who should not make this trip.
Destination GuidesAnnapurna Base Camp trek: complete 7-day guide with altitudes, costs and permits
The Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek is 7 days from Pokhara, climbs to 4,130 metres, costs roughly USD 600-1,200 per person, and is genuinely accessible to fit non-mountaineers. Day-by-day plan, permits, gear list and the altitude facts that matter.
SeasonsSikkim in May: weather, rhododendron tail, crowds and what to actually book
May is the last clean window before monsoon and the most crowded month in Sikkim. Gangtok daytime 19–22°C, North Sikkim accessible, late rhododendron bloom in Yumthang — but Indian school holidays bring peak prices and packed hotels. Honest version below.
Destination GuidesSikkim hidden gems: 12 places competitor packages skip and why we keep sending guests there
Beyond Gangtok, Pelling and the standard North Sikkim circuit, Sikkim has a dozen places most tour packages skip — Borong hot springs, Tendong Hill, Rinchenpong, Okhrey orchid trail, Aritar lake, Tinchuley tea-and-trekking villages. These are our most-requested off-circuit additions.
SeasonsSikkim in January: snow at Nathang, closed passes, and what is still worth the trip
January in Sikkim means deep snow at Nathang and Aritar, frozen Tsomgo Lake, Gurudongmar closed for the first two weeks, and overnight lows below zero at high altitude. North Sikkim trips are scaled back but the Old Silk Route to Nathang is the snow-chaser's month.
Destination GuidesThe Old Silk Route in East Sikkim: the road from Rongli to Jelepla, named places and history
The Old Silk Route ran from Kalimpong through Rongli, Aritar, Zuluk, Nathang, Kupup and Jelepla pass into Lhasa. The Indian segment closes at Jelepla; everything below is still drivable. This is the deep-dive guide — the history, the named places, the 32 hairpin bends and why the road exists.
Travel EssentialsSikkim for foreigners: RAP, PAP, what is closed and the realistic itinerary
Foreigners visiting Sikkim need a Restricted Area Permit (RAP) to enter and a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for North Sikkim. Three destinations are currently closed to foreigners regardless of permit: Gurudongmar, Cholamu, and the Zuluk-Nathang circuit. This is the foreigner-specific Sikkim trip guide.
SeasonsMonsoon in Sikkim: what actually happens from July to September
Yes, it rains. No, the state does not shut down. Here's what we see from our office window every monsoon — the landslide stretches, the quiet valleys, and why some of our favourite guests come in August.
Travel EssentialsAltitude sickness at Gurudongmar: what we tell every guest
Gurudongmar sits at 5,430 metres. That is a real number with real consequences. We've had to turn cars back more than once — here is the honest briefing we give before every North Sikkim trip.
StoriesSikkim photography: the 10 best photography spots and the months they actually work
Sikkim photography is about timing. Tashi Viewpoint at 5:50 a.m. in October. Yumthang at 7:30 a.m. in May. Pelling at sunset on a clear November day. Gurudongmar between 9:00 and 10:00 a.m. only. This is the local guide to where to shoot, when to be there, and what to skip.
ItinerariesSikkim & Darjeeling in 10 days: a real itinerary
Not a brochure — an actual day-by-day that works for families, couples and solo travellers alike, with honest advice on what to skip.
Travel TipsPakyong Airport or Bagdogra Airport for your Sikkim trip: the honest 2026 comparison
A practical comparison of the two airports for Sikkim travel. Why Pakyong is still mostly aspirational, why Bagdogra remains the working choice, and what to do if your flight to Pakyong gets cancelled.
SeasonsBest time to visit Sikkim: an honest month-by-month guide
January is for snow at Nathang. April is for rhododendrons. July is for quiet roads and green. We live here — here is what every month actually looks like, and which one is right for your trip.
Culture & HeritageNamgyal Institute of Tibetology in Gangtok: the museum that holds the second-largest Tibetan collection outside Tibet
A visit guide to one of the world's most significant Tibetology institutes. The history, the manuscript collection, the iconographic art, and why an unhurried 2-3 hours here changes how you see the rest of your Sikkim trip.
StoriesA morning at Rumtek: the prayer hour no-one talks about
Most buses arrive at Rumtek around ten. By then the best part is over. I got there at 5:30 one cold December morning — here is what that hour felt like, and why we now send our guests early.
Destination GuidesBest places to visit in Sikkim: 20 sights worth your time, by district
Sikkim has roughly 60 named places that get listed on travel sites. Most of them do not deserve a full day. This is the cut-down list — 20 places organised by district, with altitude, permit notes, best time, and what to skip.
StoriesWhy we don't do group tours
We tried it once, in 2014. A bus, twenty-two strangers, a fixed schedule. Nobody was happy — not them, not us. Here is what that trip taught us, and why every itinerary we build is still private.
Travel EssentialsSelf-drive in Sikkim: where it works, where it does not, and the honest rules
Self-driving in Sikkim is partially possible. NH-10 from Bagdogra to Gangtok is fine. Tsomgo and the East Sikkim permit areas allow private cars only with paperwork. North Sikkim past Chungthang is closed to non-Sikkim vehicles — period. Here are the actual rules.
Destination GuidesWhy October in North Sikkim is worth the wait
The monsoon has washed everything clean. The roads are clear. Gurudongmar is accessible. And the October light at 5,000 metres is unlike anything else in India.