The Annapurna Base Camp trek (ABC) is a 7-day high-altitude walk from Pokhara to the base camp of the Annapurna massif at 4,130 metres (13,549 feet) and back. It is the most-walked trek in Nepal after Everest Base Camp, climbs through five distinct ecosystems in a week, requires two permits (ACAP and TIMS), and costs USD 600 to USD 1,200 per person all-inclusive depending on tier. We have run ABC treks for our Nepal-bound guests since 2018, partnering with Pokhara-based guide services. Below is the honest day-by-day guide — what each day actually looks like, what the altitude does to you, what to pack and where the common mistakes happen.
The route in one paragraph
- Day 1 — Pokhara (820 m) → drive to Nayapul (1,070 m) → walk to Tikhedhunga (1,540 m), 4-5 hours walking
- Day 2 — Tikhedhunga → climb the famous 3,400 stone steps to Ulleri → Ghorepani (2,860 m), 6 hours
- Day 3 — Pre-dawn climb to Poon Hill (3,210 m) for sunrise. Descent to Tadapani (2,630 m), 6 hours
- Day 4 — Tadapani → Chhomrong (2,170 m), 5 hours
- Day 5 — Chhomrong → Bamboo (2,310 m) → Himalaya (2,920 m), 6-7 hours
- Day 6 — Himalaya → Deurali (3,200 m) → Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3,700 m), 5 hours
- Day 7 — MBC → Annapurna Base Camp (4,130 m), 2 hours up. Sunrise photography. Descend to Bamboo, 7 hours total
- Days 8-10 — Descend via Jhinu Danda (hot springs!), Siwai → drive Pokhara. Two-day descent
The altitude facts that matter
Annapurna Base Camp at 4,130 m is lower than Gurudongmar Lake (5,430 m) but the exposure is longer — you spend 4 days above 2,500 m and 2 nights above 3,000 m. The standard ABC itinerary is conservative enough that Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is uncommon — roughly 8-12 per cent of trekkers feel mild symptoms, 1-2 per cent need to descend. The slow climb (Tikhedhunga at 1,540 m → ABC at 4,130 m over 6 walking days = 430 m vertical per sleeping night) keeps you within the medical "ideal" pace. Diamox is sometimes recommended at the MBC-ABC night; ask your GP at least 2 weeks before travel.
Permits required
- ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) — NPR 3,000 (~USD 23) for SAARC nationals, NPR 4,000 (~USD 30) for others. Issued at Pokhara or Kathmandu offices. Two passport photos required.
- TIMS (Trekker's Information Management System) card — NPR 2,000 (~USD 15). Issued same office as ACAP.
- For Indian nationals: passport or Voter ID card sufficient as ID. Aadhaar card NOT accepted as primary ID for Nepal entry.
- For foreigners: passport plus Nepal entry visa (visa-on-arrival USD 30 for 15 days, USD 50 for 30 days).
- Both permits processed in Pokhara same-day; allow 1 hour at the office.
When to trek — the two windows
October to mid-December is the primary window: clear post-monsoon weather, stable conditions, peak visibility of the Annapurna massif from ABC at sunrise, dry trails. March to mid-May is the secondary window: rhododendron bloom on the lower trails (the famous Ghorepani-Poon Hill stretch is at its peak in late March-April), warmer weather, longer days, but cloudier afternoons. Mid-May to September is monsoon — trails are slippery, leeches are real, views are poor. Late December to mid-March is winter — possible but cold (-10°C at ABC nights), some tea houses close, snow on the upper trails. October-November is what we recommend most.
Real cost breakdown
- Budget tier — solo trekker with porter only, basic tea-house rooms: USD 600-800 per person, 10 days all-in. Permits, porter (USD 15-20/day), tea-house room (USD 8-12/night), food (USD 20-30/day).
- Mid tier — guide + porter, mid-range tea houses: USD 900-1,200 per person. Guide USD 25-35/day, slightly better food and rooms, group of 2 sharing.
- Premium tier — private guide + porter, upgraded tea houses where available, two guests sharing: USD 1,400-1,800 per person. Same trek with better support.
- Add-ons: international flights to Kathmandu (USD 200-600 from major Indian cities), Kathmandu-Pokhara flight (USD 110 each way, or 6-7 hour bus ride USD 12), travel insurance USD 30-60 (mandatory for trek operators).
- For Indians: total trip cost roughly ₹50,000 to ₹1,00,000 per person depending on tier, transport and accommodation choices in Kathmandu/Pokhara.
Essential gear
- Trekking shoes — broken-in, waterproof, with good ankle support. Do NOT buy new shoes a week before the trek
- Trekking poles — essential for the descent and the Ulleri steps. Hire in Pokhara for USD 3-4/day if not buying
- Down jacket (700+ fill power) — for ABC and MBC nights
- Thermal base layer top and bottom
- Fleece mid-layer
- Rain shell — even in dry season, afternoon weather changes
- Trek pants (zip-off recommended) and quick-dry shirts × 3
- Wool/synthetic socks × 5 pairs, light hiking shoes for tea-house evenings
- Headlamp with spare batteries — for the 4 a.m. Poon Hill departure and ABC sunrise
- Sleeping bag rated to -10°C — essential, hire in Pokhara if not bringing your own (USD 2-3/day)
- Water purification — Steripen or chlorine tablets. Bottled water is environmental damage on this trail
- First aid kit — including blister care, Diamox if prescribed, paracetamol, anti-diarrhoea
The four most common ABC mistakes
- Compressing the schedule — doing ABC in 5 days instead of 7. This doubles altitude-symptom rates. The 7-day version is the minimum sensible plan.
- Insufficient acclimatisation at Ghorepani — skipping the Poon Hill day to "save time" robs you of the trip's best sunrise and an acclimatisation day.
- Buying new shoes in Pokhara — guaranteed blisters by Day 3. Bring well-broken-in trekking shoes from home.
- Drinking too little water — dehydration at altitude is the single most common cause of mild AMS symptoms. Aim for 3-4 litres a day.